Something old, something new
Pulau Duyung
Pulau Duyung
A trip to Pulau Duyong turns into a rush through history for ALAN TEH LEAM SENG as he hops from a 90-year-old fort to traditional boatmakers and a modern marina resort.
If walls could talk, who knows what wonderful stories about Pulau Duyong’s past will be revealed?
External view of a duplex chalet at theHeritage Bay Club Marina and Resort
Beautiful blooms add character to the chaletsDRIVING along Sultan Mahmud Bridge was a breeze despite the hot tropical heat. Traffic was heavy but smooth flowing.
I soon came up to a sign directing me to turn towards my destination, Pulau Duyong or Mermaid Island, one of Terengganu’s most happening tourist destinations today, thanks to the annual international sailing event, the Monsoon Cup.This year’s competition starts tomorrow, and already my mind has vivid pictures of sail boats taking to the raging South China Sea fronting the island.
All’s ‘Well’
My first stop was the Duyong Old Fort which showcased traditional Terengganu architecture. Along the way, I passed several houses that still had wells near the steps leading up to their homes.Some 50 years ago, most of the villagers in Pulau Duyong depended on wells and the Terengganu River for their daily water supply.
Curiosity got the better of me and I took a peek inside one well. What a pleasant surprise it was to find water in it still!Just then, an elderly man in a sarong came up and threw in a bucket to draw water. His toothless grin was friendly. After washing his feet, he went up the staircase and entered what must be his home. The metal bucket that he left hanging by the side of the house looked aged and was badly dented. “It must have served him well through the years,” I thought.
Fort Without Fortifications?
Duyong Old Fort was just a short distance away.
At first glance, it looked like a traditional Malay palace. I was especially attracted to the intricately carved woodwork and layout. The imposing structure, sheltered by nine roofs, is said to resemble the designs of several types of traditional Terengganu homes like Bujang Berpeleh, Lima Bungkus and Potong Belanda.
Although the name conjures up an image of strong fortifications and ramparts, the primary objective for building the fort was not to ward off marauding invaders. Built some 90 years ago during a period of peace and prosperity, the fort was erected to showcase Terengganu’s rich architectural heritage.Strong Corinthian and Egyptian influences add to its artistic allure. A few historians are of the opinion that the person responsible for the building, Datuk Biji Sura, was so influenced by visiting tradesmen to Kuala Terengganu that he decided to incorporate their art into his design of the fort.
Despite its age, the white walls hardly showed any sign of wear. Perhaps this was due to the innovative use of clay, sand, eggs, honey and lime (from cockle shells) for construction at the time by the rich and famous. I remember once reading with scepticism, in Noel Barber’s Tanamera, about the use of this technique to produce plaster that was as smooth and strong as marble. Perhaps there was some truth to the tale after all.Datuk Biji Sura was the cousin of Terengganu’s first Menteri Besar. He was well educated and began his career as a clerk at the Terengganu Court. He was later appointed a member of the Royal Council with additional duties as chief Syariah Court judge and commissioner of Religious Affairs.Boat Builders After soaking in the illustrious history of the island’s past, I made my way to see an industry that had become synonymous with Pulau Duyong.
No visit to the island would be complete without a visit to its renowned shipyards. The island has gained worldwide recognition as a centre for traditional boat making. The boats are built without the use of blueprints or plans!I watched in awe as the local craftsmen went about their task. Everything was done by hand and surprisingly, there were few modern equipment used. I approached several builders taking a break nearby.What they told me was simply amazing. It’s true indeed that they don’t use a single blueprint or plan to build a vessel, be it a giant trawler or a luxury yacht destined for foreign shores!
All a master craftsman needs to know is the type and size of vessel. He then draws on his vast experience and photographic memory to begin his work. Even in this day and age, well-worn traditional tools like axe, saw, plane and hammer are the main tools of the trade.Before returning to their work after the short break, one of the craftsmen pointed in the direction Kuala Terengganu and said “Monsoon Cup”.
I knew immediately that he was referring to the Heritage Bay Club Marina and Resort, which incidentally was my final stop for the day.Home of the Monsoon CupLeaving Duyong Old Fort and the traditional boat builders, I drove towards the Heritage Bay Club Marina & Resort with its spanking new clubhouse, chalets and state of the art yachting facilities.Along the way, I had the strangest feeling of being in a time capsule with the entire history of Pulau Duyong moving fast forward at lightning speed.
I was now heading back to the future!The Heritage Bay Club Marina & Resort was established in conjunction with the inaugural Monsoon Cup in 2005 to promote Terengganu as a world acclaimed yachting venue.
It offers water related activities like river cruises, sail tours and regattas and conducts training for community groups, corporate organisations and the general public.I headed for the Ulek Mayang Restaurant to quench my thirst and get a chance to rest my travel weary feet. Here, I enjoyed stunning views of Kuala Terengganu town and the South China Sea from its ultra modern dining area.
Even the partitions separating each table were shaped like sails!The food had interesting local names like Pulau Redang Special (foot-long chicken sausage bun), Heritage Bay Club Lekor Fried Rice with fried fish cake, Monsoon Laksa and Nasi Lemak Traditional Seberang Takir.Fed, rehydrated and rested, I went to the marina, hoping to catch a glimpse of the prize-winning boats to be used in the Monsoon Cup competition. I was not disappointed. There they were, a pair of boats inscribed “Richard Mille”, bobbing gently by the pontoon.With great satisfaction, I bade farewell to Pulau Duyong.
By then, the evening sky was a picture-perfect backdrop for the island which embodied both Terengganu’s illustrious past as well as the promise of a bright future.Getting ThereBy Air: Pulau Duyong lies a short distance from Kuala Terengganu, the capital and largest town in the State.
The opening of the Sultan Mahmud Bridge in 1990 not only allowed easy access to the island but also spurred its growth from a sleepy fishing village to a tourist destination. Kuala Terengganu is about 50 minutes by air from Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia Airlines and AirAsia make several daily flights to Kuala Terengganu.
Pulau Duyong is about 20 minutes from the airport.By road: Travellers from Kuala Lumpur can head east towards Kuantan via the Karak Highway. It takes about three hours to reach Kuantan. From there, the smooth driving and scenic coastal route will lead straight to Kuala Terengganu.
Those from the north, including Penang, should take the East-West Highway and head towards Kota Baru. From here, take the coastal road and you’d be in Kuala Terengganu in no time at all. From the south, including Johor and Singapore, drive along the North-South Expressway and exit at Yong Peng. From there, travel along the main thoroughfare to Labis and Segamat. Just follow the road signs from Segamat to Kuantan.
From there, it is smooth driving all the way to Kuala Terengganu.
By Sea:
Those intending to approach Pulau Duyong by sea should note that its position is Lat 05° 20.3´ N Long. 103° 085´ E. The Pulau Duyong Light Beacon flashes green (3s) while the Kuala Terengganu Light Beacon flashes quick white. Communication is via VHF listening on Ch. 16 and Single Side Band (SSB) on frequency 8124.00 KHz.
Accommodation
The Heritage Bay Club Marina and Resort offers comfortable chalet-style accommodation. There are three categories of chalets: Cemara (duplex), Teratak (executive suite) and Serambi (deluxe room). Guests have a choice of dining either at the Mayang Sari Restaurant or at the Terengganu House poolside lounge.
For further information and reservation, contact The Heritage Bay Club Marina & Resort, Pulau Duyong, 21300 Kuala Terengganu, Terengganu. Tel: 09-627 7888 Fax: 09-622 9903. E-mail: info@heritagebayclub.com.
Website: http://www.heritagebayclub.com/
Must Do
Interesting sights are best appreciated on foot.
Bring ample drinking water and wear comfortable walking shoes. Wide brimmed hats will offer a respite from the tropical sun.In the village, watch the villagers go about their daily activities including drawing water from ancient wells. Then visit the Duyong Old Fort. Look out for its exquisite woodcarvings especially on the veranda. The boat building workshops are a must visit.Walk around the marina to see the racing boats on display. Along the way, stop and enjoy the bracing sea breeze and stunning views of Kuala Terengganu town across the Terengganu River. Pictures by ALAN TEH LEAM SENG
RM160 escapade: Island on a budget (Perhentian ISLAND)
You don't need to be rich to holiday on a South China Sea island. For a paltry sum, PUTRI ZANINA finds a slice of paradise in Pulau Perhentian Kecil.
ALL you need is just RM160 and you can escape to a world-class island. How? Well, travel on the cheap, like backpackers do. Your destination? Pulau Perhentian Kecil, off the coast of Terengganu and well known all over the world as a backpackers’ haven.
Lonely Planet, the popular guidebook for those who travel on a shoestring budget, describes the island as having “one of the best backpacker beaches in mainland Southeast Asia”. It’s not surprising then to see a young international crowd, mostly singles, converging on the island, turning it into a small global village. Here, everyone gets into island mode – relaxing under the sun and sinking gently into the tranquility of this heavenly spot with its warm, welcoming sea.
Sins & Families
That morning, when our boat sped towards the island from the jetty at Kuala Besut, our boatman enquired whether we were going to the big island or the small island. “The small one,” we told him, referring to Perhentian Kecil, one of two islands that make up Pulau Perhentian. The big one, Perhentian Besar, is separated from the little one by just 10 minutes by boat. He smiled, his yellow-tainted teeth shining against the bright sunlight. “Itu pulau maksiat,” he said, his voice rising above the roar of the engine. We smiled at him knowingly. We knew that some locals dubbed Perhentian Kecil as the “island of vice (maksiat)” where singles and the “single-at-heart” meet, mingle and party.
The boatman then told us that locals prefer Perhentian Besar. “It is suitable for families. You can find more comfortable lodging there. Only two of you travelling together?” he enquired, looking at us as he squinted against the sun. Because he was such a nosy character, we gingerly steered him away from personal stuff and into small talk about how beautiful the sea was. And beautiful it was indeed, the blue-green sea with water glinting in the sunlight. The sweeping view of sky and sea, punctuated with little boats in the horizon, was nothing short of dazzling.
Village Ambience
About 30 minutes later, we approached the shore of Perhentian Besar where half the number of passengers in the boat, all locals, got off. The rest of us, 10 altogether, including a motley group of western backpackers, would be going on to the little island. Barely rising from above the waves, a gentle slope of white sand beach festooned with coconut palms and casuarina trees loomed into view. Our boat stopped not too far from the beach.
Almost on cue, several little boats sped towards us. These would ferry us to the shore. When we finally stepped on land, we hung on to our backpacks and walked along the beach under the searing sun. Thirsty and exhausted, we stopped at the nearest chalet. Tucked against a rocky headland in the southeastern side of the island, the wooden shacks of the Lemon Grass Chalets, well shaded among trees, beckoned like a cool oasis. It looked like a small village with traditional Malay houses built on stilts.
We decided to book a chalet there. The rate was unbelievably low. Only RM35 for a chalet for two! Each chalet has a veranda. Our neighbours, two caucasian girls clad in batik sarong tied over their bikinis, were within hearing shot! They had a ready smile when we waved and responded with a cheerful “hello!” Once inside the chalet, however, we couldn’t wait to get out! It was steaming hot inside and we couldn’t switch on the table fan as electricity was available only from 7pm to 7am.
There was a double bed with a thin mattress covered with, thankfully, a clean sheet. That was all but hey, we couldn’t expect more for the meagre amount we paid. A common bath area and the toilets are located outside. Rainwater is collected in barrels and this is used for washing, and even bathing, when the piped water runs low. Owned by Ma Hussin Yusof, Lemon Grass has been in operation for the last nine years.
There are 16 units of chalets, occupied mainly by foreigners. “Only about five per cent are locals,” said the reception staff. A quick glance through the guest-book showed that the guests were mainly students from England and other parts of Europe. We were told that some have stayed on the island for over a month. A few even worked part time at local sundry shops and snorkelling/diving centres to raise money before they moved on to other places. A few have even settled down here, marrying locals or staying with adopted families.
Famous Long Beach
On the island, the great outdoors are everyone’s playground. The action is all out there, especially over at the Long Beach. It’s the most famous and the longest stretch of beach on the island. Hardly anyone calls it by its local name, Pantai Pasir Panjang. Lazy chairs and colourful umbrellas dot the sparkling white sand beach.
If you’re taking a stroll along the beach, you may find it hard to keep your eyes “straight” ahead. But try you must, as it is rude to stare at the skimpily clad men and women sunbathing and relaxing under the sun. Here, the code of conduct is “don’t stare, judge or comment”. Just smile and if you feel like it, strike up a conversation and ask a few friendly questions.
Despite the many people on the beach, you can still find your own spot of privacy. Why, even white belly eagles seem tame and often land on a quiet spot here. Lining the beach are rustic little beach cafes and restaurants with wooden poles and nipah roofs. Buoys, flags and batik sarongs hanging from the roofs or hung on poles and walls add colour to the lazy island ambience. Equally enchanting are the names of some of the drinking joints, eateries and chalets – Matahari (sun), Symphony, Moonlight, Panorama and D’Lagoon, all of which add to the touch of romance in the air.
Do Not Disturb
We spent the afternoon sipping the island’s specialty drink, coconut shake — coconut milk or santan blended with ice and vanilla ice cream and served in a tall glass. Just perfect for chilling out in the hot afternoon. We gazed at the turquoise-blue waters, watching others bathe in the sea or set out in boats for a spot of snorkelling and diving. The surrounding waters are protected areas so there’s a thriving marine life and healthy coral gardens to admire. The young crowd on the beach was oblivious to others. Hours passed with many of them just lying on lazy chairs or on towels spread on the sand. Reading, sunbathing, sleeping or having quiet chat over cool drinks – it was each to his or her own private indulgence. Very little broke the peace of the quiet moments except for the occasional sounds of boats passing by.
Lots Of Green
For a change of scene, we trekked the hilly, lightly forested interior towards the western side of the island. Well-posted signs directed us along the trail from Long Beach to the tiny and pretty Coral Bay or Aur Bay on the western part. It was an easy 15-minute walk along footpaths through the jungle. The highest point with tall trees accorded us a peek at the sea, craggy mountainside and picturesque chalets tucked among pockets of greens. Much of the island remains shrouded in greenery, rocky land and cliffs surrounding the bays and inlets. These are home to birds, monitor lizards and bees humming among flowery bushes. Coral Bay has a small strip of beach and not too far away is the Sunset Beach. The best time to be there is obviously when the sun is going down. Watching the white sand turning gold and amber as the sun went down below the horizon made our day.
Party Time!
Walking back to Long Beach, we saw lights twinkling on the beachfront. When the sun goes down, the tempo goes up. Night is definitely not the time to retire to the chalets and catch some sleep. It is time to party! There was music and, if anyone chose, there was dancing. Certainly, there was a lot of merrymaking, drinking and dining. Beach parties are one of the island’s attractions. But we saw no evidence of purportedly “wild” scenes of drunken people getting rowdy or couples smooching openly. Instead, everyone was having a good time, eating and drinking and listening to music that went on till the wee hours.
Feeling Right At Home
Sleep came very hard but we managed to knock off for maybe two to three hours. At the crack of dawn, we were back on the beach. At that time, the island was totally seductive, the water inviting. We took a dip and found the water warm and wonderfully soothing. We had the beach all to ourselves while the rest of the island slept on. The rocky cliffs seemed so familiar then and we felt so comfortably at home. Yes, in a way we did as I am sure so many others must have felt too. But for now, we were all cocooned in our own beautiful dreams on this island paradise.
How Much
The estimated budget of RM160 covers the cost for one person on 2D/1N stay (twin sharing RM17.50 each) in a budget chalet, return bus fare Kuala Lumpur-Kuala Besut jetty (RM14), return speed boat fare Kuala Besut jetty-Pulau Perhentian Kecil (RM60), return small boat transfer (RM4), entrance fee to the island, which is within a marine park (RM5) and meals for two days (RM60).
If you travel by express train from Kuala Lumpur, you will need to pay more. Economy seat on train (RM56 return) and taxi fare from the train station in Wakaf Baru in Kelantan to Kuala Besut (about RM80 return). If you want to snorkel or dive, set aside another RM40 for the trip and RM65 to RM90 per dive. Bring more cash for contingencies and if you want to splurge a little.
Where To Stay
Long Beach: Lemon Grass Chalets, Matahari Chalets, Chempaka Chalets and Panorama Chalets for back to basic lodging. Bubu Long Beach Resort offers a more comfortable stay.
Coral Bay: Fatimah Chalets, Maya Beach Resort and Aur Bay Chalets. There are many other chalets that charge from RM10 for dormitory-style accommodation to over RM270 for room with air-conditioning and bathroom.
Most chalets don’t accept advance booking and they are fully occupied most of the time. Plan to arrive early at the island to check for room availability. Bring along a tent in case all rooms are fully booked, especially during peak season. For details, contact local travel agents offering tours to Perhentian.
Two of these are Kuala Besut Travel & Tours (09-697 4948) or Ping Anchorage Travel & Tours (09-626 2020). Lemon Grass Chalets can be reached by calling 019-938 3893/012-900 8393.
What To Eat
Beach cafes and restaurants offer both local and western fare. You can get some fairly good western food as eateries there cater mostly to westerners. Western breakfast (toast and pancakes, from RM3 to RM6), sandwiches RM4.50 to RM6, main dishes like spaghetti and rice dishes (from RM7) and barbecue (from RM10).
How To Get There
Pulau Perhentian in the South China Sea is located 20km off the coast of Terengganu. The main gateway is Kuala Besut, 108km from Kuala Terengganu (about two hours) and 54km from Kota Baru or Wakaf Baru, Kelantan (about one hour). Boat ride from Kuala Besut: 30 minutes by speedboat and 1 1/2 hours by slow boat.
Best Time To Go
March to September, but avoid school holidays and public holidays. The island is closed during the monsoon season from October to February.
What’s On
Mark August in your calendar for the annual Perhentian Island Challenge. This year, it will be from August 24 to 26. It is a multi-sport endurance race that includes swimming, kayaking, trail/beach running and water orienteering. Now into its fourth year, the challenge this year offers cash prizes totalling RM50,000.
There is a new category for first-timers in addition to the Elite category. Be there to watch participants from all over the world in keen competition. Entertainment, traditional games and food fair are added attractions.
For details, contact info@perhentianislandchallenge.com or call 013-210 9283 or 03-2142 6688.
You don't need to be rich to holiday on a South China Sea island. For a paltry sum, PUTRI ZANINA finds a slice of paradise in Pulau Perhentian Kecil.
ALL you need is just RM160 and you can escape to a world-class island. How? Well, travel on the cheap, like backpackers do. Your destination? Pulau Perhentian Kecil, off the coast of Terengganu and well known all over the world as a backpackers’ haven.
Lonely Planet, the popular guidebook for those who travel on a shoestring budget, describes the island as having “one of the best backpacker beaches in mainland Southeast Asia”. It’s not surprising then to see a young international crowd, mostly singles, converging on the island, turning it into a small global village. Here, everyone gets into island mode – relaxing under the sun and sinking gently into the tranquility of this heavenly spot with its warm, welcoming sea.
Sins & Families
That morning, when our boat sped towards the island from the jetty at Kuala Besut, our boatman enquired whether we were going to the big island or the small island. “The small one,” we told him, referring to Perhentian Kecil, one of two islands that make up Pulau Perhentian. The big one, Perhentian Besar, is separated from the little one by just 10 minutes by boat. He smiled, his yellow-tainted teeth shining against the bright sunlight. “Itu pulau maksiat,” he said, his voice rising above the roar of the engine. We smiled at him knowingly. We knew that some locals dubbed Perhentian Kecil as the “island of vice (maksiat)” where singles and the “single-at-heart” meet, mingle and party.
The boatman then told us that locals prefer Perhentian Besar. “It is suitable for families. You can find more comfortable lodging there. Only two of you travelling together?” he enquired, looking at us as he squinted against the sun. Because he was such a nosy character, we gingerly steered him away from personal stuff and into small talk about how beautiful the sea was. And beautiful it was indeed, the blue-green sea with water glinting in the sunlight. The sweeping view of sky and sea, punctuated with little boats in the horizon, was nothing short of dazzling.
Village Ambience
About 30 minutes later, we approached the shore of Perhentian Besar where half the number of passengers in the boat, all locals, got off. The rest of us, 10 altogether, including a motley group of western backpackers, would be going on to the little island. Barely rising from above the waves, a gentle slope of white sand beach festooned with coconut palms and casuarina trees loomed into view. Our boat stopped not too far from the beach.
Almost on cue, several little boats sped towards us. These would ferry us to the shore. When we finally stepped on land, we hung on to our backpacks and walked along the beach under the searing sun. Thirsty and exhausted, we stopped at the nearest chalet. Tucked against a rocky headland in the southeastern side of the island, the wooden shacks of the Lemon Grass Chalets, well shaded among trees, beckoned like a cool oasis. It looked like a small village with traditional Malay houses built on stilts.
We decided to book a chalet there. The rate was unbelievably low. Only RM35 for a chalet for two! Each chalet has a veranda. Our neighbours, two caucasian girls clad in batik sarong tied over their bikinis, were within hearing shot! They had a ready smile when we waved and responded with a cheerful “hello!” Once inside the chalet, however, we couldn’t wait to get out! It was steaming hot inside and we couldn’t switch on the table fan as electricity was available only from 7pm to 7am.
There was a double bed with a thin mattress covered with, thankfully, a clean sheet. That was all but hey, we couldn’t expect more for the meagre amount we paid. A common bath area and the toilets are located outside. Rainwater is collected in barrels and this is used for washing, and even bathing, when the piped water runs low. Owned by Ma Hussin Yusof, Lemon Grass has been in operation for the last nine years.
There are 16 units of chalets, occupied mainly by foreigners. “Only about five per cent are locals,” said the reception staff. A quick glance through the guest-book showed that the guests were mainly students from England and other parts of Europe. We were told that some have stayed on the island for over a month. A few even worked part time at local sundry shops and snorkelling/diving centres to raise money before they moved on to other places. A few have even settled down here, marrying locals or staying with adopted families.
Famous Long Beach
On the island, the great outdoors are everyone’s playground. The action is all out there, especially over at the Long Beach. It’s the most famous and the longest stretch of beach on the island. Hardly anyone calls it by its local name, Pantai Pasir Panjang. Lazy chairs and colourful umbrellas dot the sparkling white sand beach.
If you’re taking a stroll along the beach, you may find it hard to keep your eyes “straight” ahead. But try you must, as it is rude to stare at the skimpily clad men and women sunbathing and relaxing under the sun. Here, the code of conduct is “don’t stare, judge or comment”. Just smile and if you feel like it, strike up a conversation and ask a few friendly questions.
Despite the many people on the beach, you can still find your own spot of privacy. Why, even white belly eagles seem tame and often land on a quiet spot here. Lining the beach are rustic little beach cafes and restaurants with wooden poles and nipah roofs. Buoys, flags and batik sarongs hanging from the roofs or hung on poles and walls add colour to the lazy island ambience. Equally enchanting are the names of some of the drinking joints, eateries and chalets – Matahari (sun), Symphony, Moonlight, Panorama and D’Lagoon, all of which add to the touch of romance in the air.
Do Not Disturb
We spent the afternoon sipping the island’s specialty drink, coconut shake — coconut milk or santan blended with ice and vanilla ice cream and served in a tall glass. Just perfect for chilling out in the hot afternoon. We gazed at the turquoise-blue waters, watching others bathe in the sea or set out in boats for a spot of snorkelling and diving. The surrounding waters are protected areas so there’s a thriving marine life and healthy coral gardens to admire. The young crowd on the beach was oblivious to others. Hours passed with many of them just lying on lazy chairs or on towels spread on the sand. Reading, sunbathing, sleeping or having quiet chat over cool drinks – it was each to his or her own private indulgence. Very little broke the peace of the quiet moments except for the occasional sounds of boats passing by.
Lots Of Green
For a change of scene, we trekked the hilly, lightly forested interior towards the western side of the island. Well-posted signs directed us along the trail from Long Beach to the tiny and pretty Coral Bay or Aur Bay on the western part. It was an easy 15-minute walk along footpaths through the jungle. The highest point with tall trees accorded us a peek at the sea, craggy mountainside and picturesque chalets tucked among pockets of greens. Much of the island remains shrouded in greenery, rocky land and cliffs surrounding the bays and inlets. These are home to birds, monitor lizards and bees humming among flowery bushes. Coral Bay has a small strip of beach and not too far away is the Sunset Beach. The best time to be there is obviously when the sun is going down. Watching the white sand turning gold and amber as the sun went down below the horizon made our day.
Party Time!
Walking back to Long Beach, we saw lights twinkling on the beachfront. When the sun goes down, the tempo goes up. Night is definitely not the time to retire to the chalets and catch some sleep. It is time to party! There was music and, if anyone chose, there was dancing. Certainly, there was a lot of merrymaking, drinking and dining. Beach parties are one of the island’s attractions. But we saw no evidence of purportedly “wild” scenes of drunken people getting rowdy or couples smooching openly. Instead, everyone was having a good time, eating and drinking and listening to music that went on till the wee hours.
Feeling Right At Home
Sleep came very hard but we managed to knock off for maybe two to three hours. At the crack of dawn, we were back on the beach. At that time, the island was totally seductive, the water inviting. We took a dip and found the water warm and wonderfully soothing. We had the beach all to ourselves while the rest of the island slept on. The rocky cliffs seemed so familiar then and we felt so comfortably at home. Yes, in a way we did as I am sure so many others must have felt too. But for now, we were all cocooned in our own beautiful dreams on this island paradise.
How Much
The estimated budget of RM160 covers the cost for one person on 2D/1N stay (twin sharing RM17.50 each) in a budget chalet, return bus fare Kuala Lumpur-Kuala Besut jetty (RM14), return speed boat fare Kuala Besut jetty-Pulau Perhentian Kecil (RM60), return small boat transfer (RM4), entrance fee to the island, which is within a marine park (RM5) and meals for two days (RM60).
If you travel by express train from Kuala Lumpur, you will need to pay more. Economy seat on train (RM56 return) and taxi fare from the train station in Wakaf Baru in Kelantan to Kuala Besut (about RM80 return). If you want to snorkel or dive, set aside another RM40 for the trip and RM65 to RM90 per dive. Bring more cash for contingencies and if you want to splurge a little.
Where To Stay
Long Beach: Lemon Grass Chalets, Matahari Chalets, Chempaka Chalets and Panorama Chalets for back to basic lodging. Bubu Long Beach Resort offers a more comfortable stay.
Coral Bay: Fatimah Chalets, Maya Beach Resort and Aur Bay Chalets. There are many other chalets that charge from RM10 for dormitory-style accommodation to over RM270 for room with air-conditioning and bathroom.
Most chalets don’t accept advance booking and they are fully occupied most of the time. Plan to arrive early at the island to check for room availability. Bring along a tent in case all rooms are fully booked, especially during peak season. For details, contact local travel agents offering tours to Perhentian.
Two of these are Kuala Besut Travel & Tours (09-697 4948) or Ping Anchorage Travel & Tours (09-626 2020). Lemon Grass Chalets can be reached by calling 019-938 3893/012-900 8393.
What To Eat
Beach cafes and restaurants offer both local and western fare. You can get some fairly good western food as eateries there cater mostly to westerners. Western breakfast (toast and pancakes, from RM3 to RM6), sandwiches RM4.50 to RM6, main dishes like spaghetti and rice dishes (from RM7) and barbecue (from RM10).
How To Get There
Pulau Perhentian in the South China Sea is located 20km off the coast of Terengganu. The main gateway is Kuala Besut, 108km from Kuala Terengganu (about two hours) and 54km from Kota Baru or Wakaf Baru, Kelantan (about one hour). Boat ride from Kuala Besut: 30 minutes by speedboat and 1 1/2 hours by slow boat.
Best Time To Go
March to September, but avoid school holidays and public holidays. The island is closed during the monsoon season from October to February.
What’s On
Mark August in your calendar for the annual Perhentian Island Challenge. This year, it will be from August 24 to 26. It is a multi-sport endurance race that includes swimming, kayaking, trail/beach running and water orienteering. Now into its fourth year, the challenge this year offers cash prizes totalling RM50,000.
There is a new category for first-timers in addition to the Elite category. Be there to watch participants from all over the world in keen competition. Entertainment, traditional games and food fair are added attractions.
For details, contact info@perhentianislandchallenge.com or call 013-210 9283 or 03-2142 6688.
I can think of better explanation about bukit besi than this guide article about Bukit Besi's History ....It better than my description about Bukit besi and would not be right for me to continue using my article when this guy has wrote a very good description about Bukit Besi, Terengganu in his article.
Title the Legacy of Iron Hill by ALIAS MOHAMED
It was once the centre of iron-mining activities, a town that boomed with activities and jobs for 8,000 people. ALIAS MOHAMED revisits Bukit Besi
IT was 50 years ago when I witnessed the first Jalur Gemilang being hoisted at Padang Astaka in Bukit Besi (Iron Hill), Terengganu to celebrate the historic Merdeka Day. At that time, the old “Iron Town” was still lively and filled with activities.
Title the Legacy of Iron Hill by ALIAS MOHAMED
It was once the centre of iron-mining activities, a town that boomed with activities and jobs for 8,000 people. ALIAS MOHAMED revisits Bukit Besi
IT was 50 years ago when I witnessed the first Jalur Gemilang being hoisted at Padang Astaka in Bukit Besi (Iron Hill), Terengganu to celebrate the historic Merdeka Day. At that time, the old “Iron Town” was still lively and filled with activities.
One of the plants for processing iron ore
But today, it is far from what it used to be. It is now very quiet – especially in the hills. In the old days, convoys of heavy vehicles and mining vessels snaked their way up the hills amidst sounds of activities and explosions from the mines. Indeed, Bukit Besi was well-known, not only in this region, but throughout the world including America and Japan.
“At that time, nobody would have thought that Bukit Besi would just ‘die away’ like this,” said a former iron ore miner, 72-year-old Mat Husin Abdullah.
Bukit Besi, located 85km from Kuala Terengganu and formerly known as Permata Bumi or literally the “Jewel of the Earth”, was first opened for iron-ore mining in 1916. But, about a century later, the mines were closed when the lodes were depleted.
Initially, the mining was undertaken by a Japanese company but it was taken over by the British after the world war in 1945.
Later, another company from America, known as the Eastern Mining & Metal Company Limited (EMMCO) took over the operations until the place was closed in early 70s. Nearly 8,000 workers, including foreigners, were employed in the mines.
Besides providing the locals with jobs, the company also provided a better and modern standard of living for the workers compared to people in other parts of Terengganu. The nearest town is Dungun, about 30km away.
Bukit Besi used to be known as Bukit Seri Bangun and stood at 400m high. It was the centre for mining activities. But somehow, the hill does not seem to be that high now and plants that used to grow on the slopes have disappeared. The whole place looks ghostly.
Saving A Legacy
In an effort to save the legacy of Bukit Besi, the Terengganu State Government has decided to gazette all the former iron-mine sites in and around it as historical heritage.
Terengganu State Culture, Youth, Sports and Non-Governmental Organisation (NGO) committee chairman Din Adam said several lots had been identified and allocated for the project, including a site for a museum.
Among the places earmarked are Bukit Seren and Bukit Tebuk, two distinguished landmarks of the iron-mine town. Also included for preservation are the remains of the mining equipment as well as railway tracks and tunnels for transporting and processing the iron ore.
A former Bukit Besi iron mine worker, Ananda Kumar, 68, came all the way from India to visit his “hometown” recently. He said: “It’s very sad to see a place, that used to be known as one of the booming towns in this region, so neglected and left to rot as if it has no historical value,” he said in almost perfect Bahasa Malaysia.
How To Get There
From Kuantan, drive along the interior road passing through Bandar Al-Mukhtafi Billah Shah (Ketengah) for 170km before turning into Bukit Besi on the left. It is 32km from Dungun and 90km from Kuala Terengganu. Contact Pusat Khidmat Masyarakat DUN Bukit Besi, Tel: 09-833 7100.
From NST
Kuala Berang’s glorious past
ALIAS MOHAMED
It’s a quiet town that you can whizz past without noticing. But, writes ALIAS MOHAMED, Kuala Berang was once a busy port in Terengganu
IT’S a place that few people will notice. It does not arouse any excitement, unlike Tasik Kenyir located 35km away. Yet, centuries ago, the district of Kuala Berang was one of the busiest ports in Terengganu where traders from as far as China came to trade and to replenish their supply of food and fresh water. Back then (12th-14th Century), the Chinese called the place Fo-Lo-Ann. The locals, however, named it Kuala Berang after the bamboo species known as buluh berang that grew wildly along the banks of Sungai Terengganu and Sungai Berang.
According to records at the Terengganu State Museum, a Chinese historian, Chan Ju Kau, wrote that Kuala Berang was once a very busy port with traders buying local goods like kayu cendawan (candan), elephant tusks and scented kayu gaharu for export to China, the Middle East and West Asia. In exchange, the traders brought gold, silverware and food for sale at markets in Kuala Berang. The traders arrived in large vessels through Sungai Terengganu or other routes that passed through Pahang and Kelantan to reach Kuala Berang.
At that time, Sg Terengganu was more than 15 metres deep and it could hold large vessels, some of them as big as medium-sized battleships that plied the Straits of Malacca. This fact is confirmed by the discovery of an iron anchor used by large vessels, near Kg Buluh. The old trading zone was near Kg Buluh, located between Sungai Terengganu and Sungai Berang, 32km from the sea. Another Chinese historian, Chau Chu Fei, described Kuala Berang as a great port, similar to Kedah’s Bujang Valley during the Srivijaya rule more than 2,000 years ago.
Kuala Berang was a thriving entity on its own, but in the 14th Century, it came under the rule of the Terengganu sultanate. The first sultan was Sultan Zainal Abidin. In the 18th Century, the administration shifted to the State capital of Kuala Terengganu. Today, Kuala Berang is one of seven districts in Terengganu and encompasses Tasik Kenyir.
Historic Finds
The famous Terengganu batu bersurat (inscribed stone slab that’s a sign of the early existence of Islam in the State) was actually found in Sungai Tara, Kg Buluh in 1887. The stone is now displayed at the Terengganu State Museum in Kuala Terengganu. The graveyards of local warriors — Tok Gajah, Tok Indera and Tok Pauh — were also found in Kuala Berang. Kuala Berang also has traces of Neolithic and Mesolithic civilisation. After Tasik Kenyir was opened in early 80s, there were several discoveries that proved the existence of the Neolithic people. At Gua Bewah in the area of Tasik Kenyir, several jars and other artefacts were found that indicated the existence of the Neolithic civilisation. Not far away, at Bukit Taat, several jars, plates and the skeletons of Neolithic people were unearthed. According to studies, this civilisation existed several thousand years ago. The findings at both Gua Bewah and Bukit Taat have long piqued the interest of historians and trekkers as well. The two places are listed as attractions of Tasik Kenyir. Since Tasik Kenyir is a popular fishing spot, Kuala Berang too benefits from the scores of visitors passing through to get there. There may not be any of the physical legacies of its glorious past but it suffices to know that it was once a bright spot in the country’s history.
Getting There
From Kuantan, Dungun or Bukit Besi, drive towards Ajil. From there, signboards point to Kuala Berang, which is about 10km from Ajil. Drive 35km from Kuala Berang and you will reach Tasik Kenyir.
What To Do
Kuala Berang itself has nothing much to offer. Tourists usually head straight for Tasik Kenyir. But those who like local fruits such as buah salak, kelubi or other jungle products, will go to the market which opens every Saturday and Monday. About 20km from the town is Sekayu Recreation Park with a beautiful stream and tiers of waterfall. There are shady spots for picnics and other activities. You can also visit the State Agriculture Department’s orchid and fruit gardens and a herb garden maintained by the State Forestry Department.
Where To Stay
Kenyir Lake View Resort (Tel: 09-666 8888) Kenyir Sanctuary Resort Mobile No. 019-983 6105). You can also stay in a boathouse run by Ketengah (Tel: 09-822 3100).
Kuala Berang’s glorious past
ALIAS MOHAMED
It’s a quiet town that you can whizz past without noticing. But, writes ALIAS MOHAMED, Kuala Berang was once a busy port in Terengganu
IT’S a place that few people will notice. It does not arouse any excitement, unlike Tasik Kenyir located 35km away. Yet, centuries ago, the district of Kuala Berang was one of the busiest ports in Terengganu where traders from as far as China came to trade and to replenish their supply of food and fresh water. Back then (12th-14th Century), the Chinese called the place Fo-Lo-Ann. The locals, however, named it Kuala Berang after the bamboo species known as buluh berang that grew wildly along the banks of Sungai Terengganu and Sungai Berang.
According to records at the Terengganu State Museum, a Chinese historian, Chan Ju Kau, wrote that Kuala Berang was once a very busy port with traders buying local goods like kayu cendawan (candan), elephant tusks and scented kayu gaharu for export to China, the Middle East and West Asia. In exchange, the traders brought gold, silverware and food for sale at markets in Kuala Berang. The traders arrived in large vessels through Sungai Terengganu or other routes that passed through Pahang and Kelantan to reach Kuala Berang.
At that time, Sg Terengganu was more than 15 metres deep and it could hold large vessels, some of them as big as medium-sized battleships that plied the Straits of Malacca. This fact is confirmed by the discovery of an iron anchor used by large vessels, near Kg Buluh. The old trading zone was near Kg Buluh, located between Sungai Terengganu and Sungai Berang, 32km from the sea. Another Chinese historian, Chau Chu Fei, described Kuala Berang as a great port, similar to Kedah’s Bujang Valley during the Srivijaya rule more than 2,000 years ago.
Kuala Berang was a thriving entity on its own, but in the 14th Century, it came under the rule of the Terengganu sultanate. The first sultan was Sultan Zainal Abidin. In the 18th Century, the administration shifted to the State capital of Kuala Terengganu. Today, Kuala Berang is one of seven districts in Terengganu and encompasses Tasik Kenyir.
Historic Finds
The famous Terengganu batu bersurat (inscribed stone slab that’s a sign of the early existence of Islam in the State) was actually found in Sungai Tara, Kg Buluh in 1887. The stone is now displayed at the Terengganu State Museum in Kuala Terengganu. The graveyards of local warriors — Tok Gajah, Tok Indera and Tok Pauh — were also found in Kuala Berang. Kuala Berang also has traces of Neolithic and Mesolithic civilisation. After Tasik Kenyir was opened in early 80s, there were several discoveries that proved the existence of the Neolithic people. At Gua Bewah in the area of Tasik Kenyir, several jars and other artefacts were found that indicated the existence of the Neolithic civilisation. Not far away, at Bukit Taat, several jars, plates and the skeletons of Neolithic people were unearthed. According to studies, this civilisation existed several thousand years ago. The findings at both Gua Bewah and Bukit Taat have long piqued the interest of historians and trekkers as well. The two places are listed as attractions of Tasik Kenyir. Since Tasik Kenyir is a popular fishing spot, Kuala Berang too benefits from the scores of visitors passing through to get there. There may not be any of the physical legacies of its glorious past but it suffices to know that it was once a bright spot in the country’s history.
Getting There
From Kuantan, Dungun or Bukit Besi, drive towards Ajil. From there, signboards point to Kuala Berang, which is about 10km from Ajil. Drive 35km from Kuala Berang and you will reach Tasik Kenyir.
What To Do
Kuala Berang itself has nothing much to offer. Tourists usually head straight for Tasik Kenyir. But those who like local fruits such as buah salak, kelubi or other jungle products, will go to the market which opens every Saturday and Monday. About 20km from the town is Sekayu Recreation Park with a beautiful stream and tiers of waterfall. There are shady spots for picnics and other activities. You can also visit the State Agriculture Department’s orchid and fruit gardens and a herb garden maintained by the State Forestry Department.
Where To Stay
Kenyir Lake View Resort (Tel: 09-666 8888) Kenyir Sanctuary Resort Mobile No. 019-983 6105). You can also stay in a boathouse run by Ketengah (Tel: 09-822 3100).
